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Once-thriving Macedonian village is perfect base from which to explore the region...
The village of Vlasti in the region of Kozani, northern Greece, is on a plateau with rich vegetation and alpine meadows at an altitude of 1,180 meters between mounts Askio (or Siniatsiko) and Mouriki. The latter is much greener than its neighbor, whose name means “without shade,” due to the fact that it is practically devoid of trees. The reason why the mountain’s vegetation has been stripped is likely the activities of the “teligato,” a cooperative form of intensive livestock farmers that prevailed throughout Greece during Ottoman rule and is responsible for many a barren hillop.The history of Vlasti begins somewhere around 1570, when the residents of Eordaia and Sisianoupoli were expelled from their villages by Turkish settlers/farmers (known as “koniari”), and sought a new, inaccessible place to set up home where they would be protected from further raids. Vlasti was not registered as an organized settlement until 1611. During the Orlov Revolt in 1770 -- which, instigated by the Russian Count Orlov, commander of the Russian navy during the Russo-Turkish War in the Peloponnese, spread to other parts of the country only to end ingloriously when the Russian abandoned the Greeks to their fate -- and the pillaging of Moschopolis -- a region in Albania with a large Greek and Vlach population that was punished by the Muslim Albanians for its participation in the Orlov Revolt -- a large number of Greek and Vlach refugees from that region settled in Vlasti.
Previously something of a backwater, Vlasti gained a significant boost from this influx of refugees, who contributed to its growth and importance, attracting more settlers from Epirus and other parts of Macedonia.
The rocky terrain and rich alpine meadows were especially conducive to livestock farming, which quickly took hold and became a staple of the local economy, with other sectors developing around it, such as dairy and textile production, as well as commerce. As the economy grew, so did professional diversity, with a number of residents becoming carpenters, builders, architects, painters, jewelers, etc.
Vlasti came under the jurisdiction of the Valide Sultan (Queen Mother) of the Ottoman Empire, who granted it numerous privileges that boosted its security, as well as its economic, social and cultural evolution. Vlasti got its first school for boys in 1843 and for girls in 1856.
Soon after the introduction of high school education to the village, the people of Vlasti began making their fortunes further afield, settling in Belgrade, Vienna, Venice, Trieste, Bucharest and other parts of Europe and the Balkans, earning wealth, academic qualifications and peerage titles. But this boom period ended in the early 20th century, as Vlasti was unable to ride out the repercussions of the Macedonian Struggle, the Balkan Wars and World War I. In World War II, the village was incinerated by the Nazis, and during the Greek Civil War, its residents abandoned it completely.
Some 800 residents returned in 1950 or thereabouts, but Vlasti never returned to its former glory and followed the fate of so many other mountain villages around the country whose residents preferred to seek their fortunes in the big city.
Vlasti, or Blasti as it is known today by locals, is located 52 kilometers from the city of Kozani and 24 km from Ptolemaida, and the trip from both cities is beautiful. The village currently has only around 100 permanent residents, but the population has been steadily rising in recent years as pensioners return and young people leave Greece’s crisis-hit cities looking to settle down in the countryside.
Vlasti is not a destination for a long holiday, but it is perfect as a base from which to explore the region, including towns like Kastoria, Siatista and Kozani, which are all marvelous. The village offers pleasant walks along narrow cobbled streets and good food at the local tavernas, and also boasts some very pretty old homes and churches.
How to get there
By car, Vlasti is located 555 km from Athens. The road is good, especially since the detour through Kastania was reopened. The route from Athens is to Larissa - Katerini - Veria, and then on to the Egnatia Highway to Vlasti via Kozani.
Where to stay
Galanos Hotel (tel 24630.92590, www.galanoshotel.gr). Located just 400 m from Vlasti’s main square, this recently opened traditional stone-built guesthouse has spacious, elegantly decorated rooms. Rates start at 60 euros for two people with breakfast. The Giannioti Estate (tel 24630.92090, 6945.953.500, www.ktimagiannioti.gr) is a new guesthouse, built with style and care. The service is excellent and the restaurant a must. Rates start at 80 euros for a double room with breakfast. The Lambas Hotel (tel 24630.92111) is one of Vlasti’s oldest and is built on a slope overlooking the entire village. The rooms are clean, warm and comfortable, though somewhat basic. Rates start at 40 euros for a double room with breakfast. Liotropi (tel 24630.92464) is a small guesthouse with five cozy rooms, located on the village’s main square. Rates start at 45 euros for a double room with breakfast.
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